We start this route from Place Carnot in the Medieval town of Bram.
Located on the eastern edge of the Lauragais in the Aude, the village of Bram has developed at the crossroads of two Roman roads: the Via Aquitania between Narbonne and Toulouse (the D33 follows its path), and a north-south road linking the Montagne Noire to the Ariège.
Its location was most certainly occupied as early as the 2nd century BC, according to the archaeological remains unearthed and the collections displayed at the Eburomagus Museum, Eburomagus being the original name of the village.

The ‘modern’ town is built in the circular style that was a typical of many built in the Languedoc during the 12th - 13th century.
There are 20+ other villages in the region built in this manner, known as ‘circulades’.

In 1210, at the beginning of the crusade against the Albigensians, the fortified village of Bram, was besieged by Simon de Montfort.
After a three-day siege, around 100 residents were taken as prisoners.
For good measure, the crusaders gouged their eyes & cut off their noses. Only one of them was spared an eye to lead an ominous procession to the Chateau de Lastours and announce the Crusaders arrival.

It's quite safe to walk the town these days, so take a wander around the old narrow streets, or explore the vibrant market that occurs each Wednesday.

In 1939 Bram was the site of a refugee camp housing Republican escapees from Spain at the end of the Spanish Civil War.
The roadside memorial now stands for the 224 refugees that perished in the camp.
They were first buried in a field at the end of the camp, but later they were transferred to the Montreal cemetery at the beginning of the 1950s.

The 12 hectare site, beside the railway line from Lavelanet, consisted of 170 wooden huts, each of 150 m2.
The first refugees from the coast were transported there by train, in convoys made up of men and children.
From May 1940, 1,300 women and more than 1,000 children were initially interned there, although up to 17,000 refugees lived there at one time.
The camp was surrounded by barbed wire more than two meters high with a watch tower at its centre.
This route later ends at the Smugglers Track in Andorra, which was also used by many fleeing Spanish refugees.

Later you will approach the town of Montreal, which is dominated by the Collegiale St.Vincent, which has more dark history from the time of the Albigensian Crusade.
In 1209, Montréal was taken and razed by Simon de Montfort´s troops.
The Lord of Lavaur and Montréal, was hanged, his sister was thrown into a well, 80 of his knights were executed and up to 400 Cathars were burned to death.
In 1273 the erection of the new castle started - and probably the church seen here was built in a "Tolosan-Gothic" style at the same time.
It was completed, using locally quarried pink marble, in 1318.
Recently the Collegiale has been subjected many phases of restoration, inside and out & is well worth a visit.
The impressive Puget pipe organ has recently undergone a €1.2 million restoration & is due to give its first public performance in May 2024.

Leaving Montreal you travel south east, through the vineyards & agriculture of the Malapere, towards Limoux.

Limoux is reputedly the home to the worlds oldest sparkling wine, Blanquette de Limoux, which was first created by Benedictine Monks in 1521 at the nearby St Hilaire Abbey.
Blanquette is made from locally grown Mausac grapes giving a distinct flavour.
Allegedly Dom Perignon visited the Abbey and worked with the monks. He later returned to Epernay, now the home of Champagne, taking the Blanquette ‘methode’ away with him to later create Champagne from Chardonnay grapes.

After Limoux, the route will follow the Aude River south to Quillan before climbing the Col de Portel hill climb course.
Each year, usually in May or June, this 5 km section of mountain road is used for a round of the French Hill Climb Championship.
Some seriously fast cars race up the challenging hill in fierce, high speed, competition. This twisting & challenging road is often included on the Tour de France route.
Ride it safely.
At the top of the hill climb you begin to travel along the high Plateau de Sault to the Col de Chiolua at 1449m, before descending into the spa town of Ax-les-Thermes.

Take time for a coffee beside the hot spring pool that is continuously filled by the hot mountain water that emerges nearby. Perhaps you may dangle your feet in its soothing waters.
Beware, it can be up to 70C at the back of the pool nearest the spring.

After coffee, you then join the main road south that follows the Ariege River until the long climb to the Province of Andorra and the town of Pas de la Casa.

Andorra is a tiny, independent principality situated between France and Spain in the Pyrenees mountains.
It is known for its ski resorts and tax-haven status that encourages duty-free shopping.
If shopping, make yourself aware of the duty free allowances, as regular checks are often carried out in both France and Spain.
Free motorcycle parking is available opposite the Daytona motorcycle clothing shop & there are many restaurants here in which to find a tasty lunchtime meal.
It is often advantageous to top up with petrol in Andorra as it is usually much cheaper.

Leaving Pas de la Casa, you will climb to the top of col at the 2408m Port de Envalira, for stunning views across the valleys.
Usually there is snow here from November to April, although the roads are normally kept clear.
On a recent visit we were sharing the large parking area with Skidoos!!

Descend the valley, avoiding the principality’s bustling main town of Andorra La Vella, by turning right at Canillo to visit the spectacular new viewpoint at Mirador del Quer.
Take the short walk to the 20-metre walkway & platform that is suspended in mid-air.
Part of the walkway is made of transparent glass & gives impressive views over the valleys of Montaup and Valira d’Orient.
The sculpture at the end of the walkway, ‘The Ponderer', by artist Miguel Ángel González, is sitting on a beam, undaunted, it appears as if the height causes him no fear whatsoever.

Later you pass through Ordino towards the final climb of the Col de Cabus.

The route ends, as does the tarmac, at the ‘Smugglers Track’ on the Port de Cabus at 2302m for more stunning views.

The Smugglers Route trail begins here and continues to Tor, a small village that lies on the border of Spain and Andorra, before ending in Ains on the Spanish side.

The Smugglers Route has been a safe corridor since the 20th Century, traversed by not only pilgrims, peddlars, and smugglers of contrabands, but by Spaniards fleeing the Spanish Civil War between 1936 and 1939 as well as WW2 refugees and evaders.

It is UNPAVED, but is still used by adventurous travellers on two wheels and four.
I have ridden it several times on an enduro bike, but I would advise caution if you intend to follow it on anything bigger.

If looking for accommodation in the area, I have used Hotel Coma, in Ordino which is a pleasant hotel which has secure garage parking for motorcycles.