
04 Keswick to Ayr via the Southern Uplands

This route was brought to you by:
RouteXpert Nick Carthew - (MRA Master)
Last edit: 19-11-2021
This route visits: The Old Blacksmiths at Gretna Green, The Devil's Porridge Museum, several castles, the strange phenomenon that is Electric Brae and humble cottage where Robert Burns was born, all while traveling around the beautiful coastline of Scotland's Southern Uplands. This route travels through a beautiful landscape on good roads with great attractions making it another 5***** star route on this LeJog tour.
Animation
Verdict
Duration
8h 7m
Mode of travel
Car or motorcycle
Distance
348.63 km
Countries


Electric Brae - Going uphill or going downhill?
The Old Blacksmith shop at Gretna Green has a romantic history. Famous since 1754, the Blacksmiths Shop is one of Scotland's earliest visitor attractions. Historic home of the anvil wedding that has been at the centre of runaway love, since the Marriage Act of 1754. Gretna Greens' rise to prominence as the number-one place in Britain to get married began in 1754 when English law lords tightened the rules regarding marriage arrangements. The new law meant that couples had to both reach the age of 21 before they could marry without their parent’s consent, and the marriage had to take place in a church. Young couples would be met at the crossroads, beside the Famous Blacksmiths Shop by the ‘Blacksmiths Priest’ - the local blacksmith who conducted marriage ceremonies over the now world-famous marriage anvil in his small shop, with the Blacksmith's' wife and sympathetic locals standing as witnesses. The legend of the marriage anvil began as the Blacksmith Priests would strike the anvil as part of the wedding ceremony - forging the lives of the two lovers together in an unbreakable bond. I've suggested a coffee stop here but if you're feeling romantic!!
The next stop is perhaps not so romantic - The Devil's Porridge Museum. This tells the story of H.M. Factory Gretna, the UK's largest cordite factory in World War I. Sir Arthur Conan Doyle, author of the James Bond novels called the sticky paste being mixed by women 'Devil's Porridge' when he visited in 1916. It also has VR tour access all areas of a nuclear power station and exhibitions relating to WW2. Outside is a WW1 fireless locomotive used at the munitions factory. Admission is £6 for adults.
The route then passes by Dalbeattie, known as the Granite Town of South West Scotland. Dalbeattie was established in the 1790s as a planned town beside the water-power of the Dalbeattie Burn and thrived on granite that was extracted from local quarries and exported across the country. Dalbeattie’s best-known historical figure is Lt William McMaster Murdoch who was First Officer aboard the 'Titanic' and played an active - and controversial - role in the great ship's last moments.
The 13c Caerlaverock Castle is next and it's one of the most attractive and interesting castles in Scotland. There are a number of things that help set Caerlaverock apart. The most striking is the way it is lapped by the waters of its broad inner moat. Coupled with its shape, an equilateral triangle with its apex at the huge northern gatehouse, the result is intriguing and instantly pleasing to the eye.
Two more castles next on this route are; Maclellan's Castle and Cardoness Castle. Both of these are more like a fortified house rather than a fully defensive castle like Caerlaverock but both can be seen from the road.
Onto Stranraer now for lunch. I have suggested a great little eatery with stunning sea views at Henrys Bay House or you can take a short ride into town for more choice.
The route after lunch is all about the beautiful sea views as you head north along the South Ayrshire coast.
There is a pull in off of the main road at Lendalfoot that is home to a memorial for the legendary Russian cruiser Varyag, one of the most prominent Russian warships of the 20th Century.
She served in the Russo-Japanese War and in 1904, being outnumbered and outgunned her captain, Captain Vsevolod Rudnev refused to surrender his ship and decided to scuttle her. In 1907, long after the Russo-Japanese War had come to a close with a decisive Japanese victory, the Emperor of this burgeoning empire awarded Captain Rudnev the Order of the Rising Sun to show admiration towards the Varyag and her crew who bravely and honourably faced a vastly superior foe rather than surrender. This, however, wasn’t the end of Varyag’s story. A year later, the Japanese Navy raised her from the bottom of Chemulpo bay and by 1907 had done the necessary repairs to once again commission her, but this time under the Imperial Japanese flag and with the name Soya. She served nearly ten years under her former enemies, before Japan and Russia, now allies in World War I, agreed to a transfer of the ship back to the Russian navy to aid in the war effort against the Central Powers, at which point she was renamed Varyag. Shortly after, she was sent by the Russian Admiralty to Great Britain to be refitted. However, its role and ownership became unclear after the Russian Revolution of 1917 and it was eventually sold for scrap three years later. While under tow, the ship ran aground just off the coast at Lendalfoot and was cut up in situ between 1923-25.
You'll also have a great view from here of Ailsa Craig, a dome shaped island 16 km west, formed from a volcanic plug from a long extinct volcano believed to be over 500 million years old. The Craig has vast quantities of fine Granite that was mined for manufacturing Curling Stones from the early 1800s - 1971. Many of the finest curling stones still used today are made of this granite.
Four miles after passing the 13th century Thomaston Castle, there's the strange phenomenon known as Electric Brae. Named The Electric Brae by victorians, this cliffside road was thought to be pulled by the “electricity” of the offshore island of Arran because when you think you are going up, you are actually going down, and vice versa. Electricity was a new enough phenomenon that many unusual things were attributed mysterious “electrical” properties. Are you going up or are you going down?
The small fishing village of Dunure comes next and is home to many places of interest including Dunure Castle where the roasting of Allan Stewart took place. Once a Kennedy stronghold, this castle is now a crumbling ruin eroding steadily into the sea with every passing Ayrshire winter. In 1570 it was the scene for the legendary roasting of the abbot of Crossraguel. In 1570 the castle was in the hand’s of Gilbert, the 4th Earl of Cassillis, who had the reputation as a greedy man with a fiery temper. Gilbert’s Uncle had been the last abbot of Crossraguel, and after his death in 1564 the abbey lands passed on to him. This was all to change in 1565, when the King appointed one Alan Stewart as the lay commendator to the abbey. This allowed him to gain control over the lands, buildings, and the duties paid to it. Obviously the Earl was not amused at this usurping, and 5 years later after a great deal of political fencing , the Earl had Stewart kidnapped and thrown into the Black Vault of Dunure. Here the poor man was roasted on a spit over a well stoked fire, until he agreed to sign away the lands to the Earl. Stewart was eventually freed and outlived the Earl, who was killed after his horse fell on him.
Just as you enter Ayr, the routes final destination, you'll travel past the humble cottage where Robert Burns was born. This thatched cottage was built in 1757 by William Burnes, Robert's father (Robert and his brother later changed the spelling of the family name to Burns. Robert Burns was born in the cottage on 25 January 1759 and spent the first seven years of his life here. Robert Burns, also known familiarly as Rabbie Burns, the National Bard, Bard of Ayrshire, the Ploughman Poet and various other names and epithets, was a Scottish poet and lyricist. He is widely regarded as the national poet of Scotland and is celebrated worldwide.
The route ends on the outskirts of Ayr at a Travelodge hotel. There are many accommodation options to choose from in Ayr.
Enjoy.

Caerlaverock Castle

View towards Ailsa Craig - Where the best curling stones are born.
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Changes may nevertheless have occurred due to changed circumstances, road diversions or seasonal closures. We therefore recommend checking each route before use.
Preferably use the route track in your navigation system. More information about the use of MyRoute-app can be found on the website under 'Community' or 'Academy'.