The Northumberland 250 (Nland250) has four unique and quite different areas that it travels through: Dark Skies, Country, Coast and Borderlands. This route begins its journey in Dark Skies, an area covering 572 square miles of protected night sky, some of the darkest skies in the whole of Europe! The start is also within the North Pennines AONB (area of outstanding natural beauty) which just happens to be a UNESCO Global Geopark too! It's nice to know that these areas are heavily protected.
The Allenheads Inn at the start point would make a good overnight stop for anyone travelling here to experience this adventure.
Climbing out of Allenheads into an open moorland landscape, the route passes the Shorngate Cross currick. A currick is a cairn (pile of stones). Cairns may serve as monuments, burial sites, or navigational aids. This one marks the border as you pass from Northumberland into County Durham. This is also the highest point of the Nland250 at about 535m above sea level. The industrial mining heritage of this area is clear to see, the pit head winding wheel of Groverake mine stands as a monument of times past. Lead was first mined here during the 18th and 19th centuries. Fluorspar was then mined during the 20th century. Fluorspar when ground down is used as a flux for the manufacture of welding rods, aluminium and steel.
A little further on is a local landmark, the Rookhope Arch. One of the few remaining parts of the 2 miles (3.2 km) Rookhope Chimney. This unusual horizontal chimney was built on the ground, which actually rises steeply to the moors. It was used to carry poisonous flue gases from the Rookhope lead smelting works up onto the high moor. Periodically, lead and silver carried in the gases and deposited in the chimney were dug out and recovered, rather than going to waste.
The 180° views from the top of Cuthbert's Hill are worthy of a quick stop for a photo of the surrounding North Pennines. It's easy to see why this isolated corner of England and the Nland250 is known as Dark Skies.
Coming down from the high moor and crossing back into Northumberland, you'll discover the picture postcard village of Blanchland. The honey-stone village with the rightful reputation as one of the prettiest villages in the north of England is another place worthy of some photos.
The route leaves the Dark Skies area and enters into the section of the Nland250 known as Country as it reaches the small town of Corbridge.
Corbridge is so much more than a quiet little Northumberland town - it has a vast history and a Roman heritage that can still be seen today at Corbridge Roman Town, situated on Hadrian's Wall.
Hadrian’s Wall was the north-west frontier of the Roman empire for nearly 300 years. It was built by the Roman army on the orders of the emperor Hadrian following his visit to Britain in AD 122. At 73 miles (80 Roman miles) long, it crossed northern Britain from Wallsend on the River Tyne in the east to Bowness-on-Solway in the west. The most famous of all the frontiers of the Roman empire, Hadrian’s Wall was made a World Heritage Site in 1987. Not all the sites on Hadrian's Wall were heavily guarded fortresses. Corbridge was once a bustling town and supply base where Romans and civilians would pick up food and provisions. It remained a vibrant community right up until the end of Roman Britain in the early years of the 5th century. Today, you can still walk through the town's streets and experience a time-capsule of Roman life. You can also discover Roman armour and trinkets uncovered with the Corbridge Hoard at the museum. The Hoard was one of the most significant finds in Roman history, providing us with a fascinating insight into the life of a soldier on the Wall. A must visit for any historian.
Travelling north on the A68 through the beautiful English countryside, it is plainly obvious why this section of the Nland250 is called Country!
After a few miles, the route passes through Northumberland National Park and a succession of castles, first is Elsdon Castle. Although only earthworks remain, the castle is the best preserved medieval motte and bailey castle site in Northumberland. It was built by Robert de Umfraville in about 1080 and stands on a natural spur of a hill. Impressive earthworks remain, 48 feet tall and 250 feet in diameter. The kidney-shaped bailey is 220 feet by 160 feet in size.
Follow the beautiful River Coquet valley to Cragside.
Cragside is a Victorian country house and was the home of William Armstrong, 1st Baron Armstrong, founder of the Armstrong Whitworth armaments firm. An industrial magnate, scientist, philanthropist and inventor of the hydraulic crane and the Armstrong gun, Armstrong also displayed his inventiveness in the domestic sphere, making Cragside the first house in the world to be lit using hydroelectric power.
Edlingham Castle is next. The castle with its remarkable leaning tower, was recently voted one of the top three castles in Northumberland. Edlingham Castle dates mainly from the 14th century, although a manor house of the 13th century is probably concealed beneath the later building. The earliest standing remains are those of the hall house, built about in 1300 by Sir William Felton at a time when Northumberland was relatively peaceful.
The market town of Alnwick is home to Alnwick Castle.
Alnwick Castle is the second largest inhabited castle in the country and has been home to the Duke of Northumberland’s family, the Percys, for over 700 years. The origins of Alnwick Castle date back to the Norman period. Since 1309 its story has been intertwined with that of the Percy family, a family with a history as illustrious as the Castle’s own. The Castle has been used for many films and starred as the magical Hogwarts School of Witchcraft and Wizardry in the Harry Potter movies.
Alnwick marks the end of the Nland250's Country section as it moves into the Coast section.
The Northumberland coast AONB is one of the finest coastlines you’ll find anywhere in England. The fishing village of Craster is where I have suggested a lunch stop.
Craster is famous for it's smoked kippers, follow your nose to L. Robson & Sons kipper smokehouse. The kippers here are a delicacy which is exported to food lovers across the country, and it is reputedly popular with the British Royal Family. After lunch, sit and watch fishing boats lazily floating near the harbour with the beautiful Dunstanburgh Castle in the distance.
Another historic fishing village is just a few miles further on; Seahouses. This colourful fishing village has a bustling harbour, an Aladdin’s Cave of shops, and plenty of ways to see the local wildlife with boat trips to the nearby Farne Islands. Like Craster, Seahouses has a view of a castle, the most impressive and romantic Bamburgh Castle.
The historic capital of the Anglo-Saxon kingdom of Northumbria. Bamburgh Castle is the king of Castles. Believed to have been occupied for over 10,000 years the castle has evolved from a wooden palisade to the formidable fortress it is today. Home to a succession of kings from Henry VI to James 1, Bamburgh was the first castle in the world to fall to gunpowder in the War of the Roses.
The Holy Island of Lindisfarne is next to visit. This mysterious tidal island off of Northumberland’s coast becomes inaccessible when the tide washes over its causeway. When it’s safe to cross the causeway, expect to find charming cafes, an ancient priory, and a castle that teeters on the coastline. I have included a link for tide times and safe crossings below.
Always check safe crossing times before visiting Holy Island, as it becomes separated from the rest of the world and completely inaccessible twice a day.
The end of the route at Berwick upon Tweed is 20 minutes from Lindisfarne.
Berwick upon Tweed also marks the change in the Nland250's areas from Coast to Borderlands.
Cobbles, castles, beaches, and boat trips await you in historical Berwick upon Tweed. Teetering on the border of England and Scotland, secrets of a bloody, conflict-filled history linger in its Elizabethan town walls and ruinous castle remains.
There is a good choice of Hotels and B&Bs; if you choose to stay the night or carry on for the south part of this Nland250.
Enjoy.