
John O Groats Dunnet Head Kyle of Tongue and Durness

This route was brought to you by:
RouteXpert Nick Carthew - (MRA Master)
Last edit: 01-04-2025
Excellent landscape, roads and very good attractions make this a 5***** star route.
Animation
Verdict
Duration
6h 20m
Mode of travel
Car or motorcycle
Distance
168.42 km
Countries


Coldbackie picnic stop
This route starts from John O' Groats and we rode it in May 2016 as the start of our return leg of our Lands End to John O' Groats trip. The land and seascapes across the top of Scotland are breathtaking, some of the best that the Highlands of Scotland has to offer.
Just along the coast from John O'Groats is Dunnets Head, this is the most northerly point on mainland GB so we had to 'bag it' and this route does too! There are some great views from Dunnet Head viewpoint.
Fuel and shops are thin on the ground in this part of Scotland so it is advisable to fill up at Thurso, we also bought some provisions for a picnic and our supper in the Lidl supermarket at Thurso. We had booked to stay the night at a bunkhouse in Durness and although there is a shop and a 24hr fuel station there, we wanted to make sure we had enough supplies (wine and beer) as Durness is quite remote, I would advise you to do the same.
This route is all about the scenery and the further west you travel the more remote and beautiful the scenery becomes. We went in May and the roadsides were awash with bright yellow Gorse, filling the air with the smell of coconut, that coupled with the bright blue sky, white sandy beaches and turquoise sea, we could have been in the Caribbean.
It's a joy to use the ancient cast iron bridge to cross over the River Naver on the way to a picnic stop at Coldbackie Beach. The beach and coastline are beautiful making this an ideal place for a break.
Next is a spectacular crossing of the Kyle of Tongue by causeway and bridge. Perhaps Tongue's most significant moment in history came in early 1746 when the ship Hazard, en route for Inverness, fled into the Kyle of Tongue to evade HMS Sheerness, a Royal Navy frigate. The Hazard (aptly named!) was carrying a large quantity of gold coins to fund Bonnie Prince Charlie's rebellion and its crew took the gold ashore in an effort to carry it overland to its destination. The Mackays were supporters of the government and their forces caught up with the crew of the Hazard next morning at Lochan Haken, near the southern end of the Kyle of Tongue. The gold was thrown into the loch by the crew before they were captured, though most of it was later recovered by the government. What adds significance is the story that when word of this reached Bonnie Prince Charlie, he sent 1,500 of his men north in an effort to regain the gold, and they were defeated en route. Some believe that had these men still been available a short time later at the Battle of Culloden the outcome might have been different. It is more likely that as Culloden was so one-sided the missing troops would have made little difference, but who can say for sure?
Now it's on to Loch Eriboll. It was here at the end of WW2 that 33 U-boat commanders surrendered their U-boats. In the space of just 15 days from May 10th to May 25th 1945, the 10-mile long loch turned into the biggest single gathering of the German submarine fleet anywhere in the world. The surrender of the subs – the wolf pack that terrorised the north Atlantic shipping lanes – in Loch Eriboll was one of the strangest episodes at the end of the war.
Durness and the Lazy Crofter Bunkhouse are just a short ride from the mouth of Loch Eriboll.
It was our first experience of a hostel style evening and I must say, it was very pleasant, we sat out on the veranda swapping tales with other travellers until it got dark, it was almost midnight as the sun sinks very slowly this far north.
Links for the hotel and bunkhouse are below as well as a link to a video I shot during our 2016 visit.
Enjoy

Naver Bridge

Skerray Bay with Neave Island.
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Scotland
About this region
Scotland (Scots: Scotland, Scottish Gaelic: Alba [ˈal̪ˠapə] (listen)) is a country that is part of the United Kingdom. Covering the northern third of the island of Great Britain, mainland Scotland has a 96-mile (154-kilometre) border with England to the southeast and is otherwise surrounded by the Atlantic Ocean to the north and west, the North Sea to the northeast and east, and the Irish Sea to the south. It also contains more than 790 islands, principally in the archipelagos of the Hebrides and the Northern Isles. Most of the population, including the capital Edinburgh, is concentrated in the Central Belt—the plain between the Scottish Highlands and the Southern Uplands—in the Scottish Lowlands.
Scotland is divided into 32 administrative subdivisions or local authorities, known as council areas. Glasgow City is the largest council area in terms of population, with Highland being the largest in terms of area. Limited self-governing power, covering matters such as education, social services and roads and transportation, is devolved from the Scottish Government to each subdivision. Scotland is the second-largest country in the United Kingdom, and accounted for 8.3% of the population in 2012.The Kingdom of Scotland emerged as an independent sovereign state in the 9th century and continued to exist until 1707. By inheritance in 1603, James VI of Scotland became king of England and Ireland, thus forming a personal union of the three kingdoms. Scotland subsequently entered into a political union with the Kingdom of England on 1 May 1707 to create the new Kingdom of Great Britain. The union also created the Parliament of Great Britain, which succeeded both the Parliament of Scotland and the Parliament of England. In 1801, the Kingdom of Great Britain entered into a political union with the Kingdom of Ireland to create the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland (in 1922, the Irish Free State seceded from the United Kingdom, leading to the latter being officially renamed the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern Ireland in 1927).Within Scotland, the monarchy of the United Kingdom has continued to use a variety of styles, titles and other royal symbols of statehood specific to the pre-union Kingdom of Scotland. The legal system within Scotland has also remained separate from those of England and Wales and Northern Ireland; Scotland constitutes a distinct jurisdiction in both public and private law. The continued existence of legal, educational, religious and other institutions distinct from those in the remainder of the UK have all contributed to the continuation of Scottish culture and national identity since the 1707 incorporating union with England.In 1999, a Scottish Parliament was re-established, in the form of a devolved unicameral legislature comprising 129 members, having authority over many areas of domestic policy. The head of the Scottish Government is the first minister of Scotland, who is supported by the deputy first minister of Scotland. Scotland is represented in the United Kingdom Parliament by 59 members of parliament (MPs). It is also a member of the British–Irish Council, sending five members of the Scottish Parliament to the British–Irish Parliamentary Assembly, as well as being part of the Joint Ministerial Committee, represented by the first minister.
Read more on Wikipedia
Scotland is divided into 32 administrative subdivisions or local authorities, known as council areas. Glasgow City is the largest council area in terms of population, with Highland being the largest in terms of area. Limited self-governing power, covering matters such as education, social services and roads and transportation, is devolved from the Scottish Government to each subdivision. Scotland is the second-largest country in the United Kingdom, and accounted for 8.3% of the population in 2012.The Kingdom of Scotland emerged as an independent sovereign state in the 9th century and continued to exist until 1707. By inheritance in 1603, James VI of Scotland became king of England and Ireland, thus forming a personal union of the three kingdoms. Scotland subsequently entered into a political union with the Kingdom of England on 1 May 1707 to create the new Kingdom of Great Britain. The union also created the Parliament of Great Britain, which succeeded both the Parliament of Scotland and the Parliament of England. In 1801, the Kingdom of Great Britain entered into a political union with the Kingdom of Ireland to create the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland (in 1922, the Irish Free State seceded from the United Kingdom, leading to the latter being officially renamed the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern Ireland in 1927).Within Scotland, the monarchy of the United Kingdom has continued to use a variety of styles, titles and other royal symbols of statehood specific to the pre-union Kingdom of Scotland. The legal system within Scotland has also remained separate from those of England and Wales and Northern Ireland; Scotland constitutes a distinct jurisdiction in both public and private law. The continued existence of legal, educational, religious and other institutions distinct from those in the remainder of the UK have all contributed to the continuation of Scottish culture and national identity since the 1707 incorporating union with England.In 1999, a Scottish Parliament was re-established, in the form of a devolved unicameral legislature comprising 129 members, having authority over many areas of domestic policy. The head of the Scottish Government is the first minister of Scotland, who is supported by the deputy first minister of Scotland. Scotland is represented in the United Kingdom Parliament by 59 members of parliament (MPs). It is also a member of the British–Irish Council, sending five members of the Scottish Parliament to the British–Irish Parliamentary Assembly, as well as being part of the Joint Ministerial Committee, represented by the first minister.
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6 Must do routes in The Highlands of Scotland
This collection of routes in the spectacular Scottish Highland's offers a great way to experience the full spectrum of what this region has to offer - snowcapped mountains, loch after loch, areas of solitary wilderness, white sandy beaches and a multitude of historic castles and buildings that reflect the past, the Highland's have everything. The weather however, cannot be guaranteed and somebody once said " Nobody visits Scotland for the weather"!
May can be a very good time of year to visit - temperatures can be pleasant and it's often a dry month with the added bonus that it's too early for the midgies. Many of the roads are single lane but largely empty and well maintained so the riding is comfortable and stress free allowing you to take in the views and there really is a wow around every corner. The pass at Glencoe for example is staggeringly impressive - you can actually see the geology and appreciate how it was scooped out by glaciers.
The people you encounter are warm and engaging and the food is good.
The very popular North Coast 500 route is included for those of you with Iron Butts that like a 1 day challenge. For me, the best way of enjoying the NC 500 is with two overnight stops, so the route includes these if required.
May can be a very good time of year to visit - temperatures can be pleasant and it's often a dry month with the added bonus that it's too early for the midgies. Many of the roads are single lane but largely empty and well maintained so the riding is comfortable and stress free allowing you to take in the views and there really is a wow around every corner. The pass at Glencoe for example is staggeringly impressive - you can actually see the geology and appreciate how it was scooped out by glaciers.
The people you encounter are warm and engaging and the food is good.
The very popular North Coast 500 route is included for those of you with Iron Butts that like a 1 day challenge. For me, the best way of enjoying the NC 500 is with two overnight stops, so the route includes these if required.
View Route Collection
6 Routes
2231.8 km
60h 22m
Top 10 Downloaded UK routes by RouteXpert Nick Carthew
Hello and welcome to this collection of the Top 10 MyRoute app downloaded routes in the UK.
There will be a great new event to be announced soon, where all these routes can be ridden.
Download them all now and place them in a new "Top 10" folder, so that you always have them at hand.
If you are going to drive one of these routes in the meantime, track them with the MRA Mobile App or with MRA Navigation. Take some photos (moments) along the way as these will come in handy.
Create a travelstory of your Top 10 driven routes and add the recorded track to it.
There will also be some great prizes on offer, so keep an eye on the MRA-RouteXperts page and your email.
There will be a great new event to be announced soon, where all these routes can be ridden.
Download them all now and place them in a new "Top 10" folder, so that you always have them at hand.
If you are going to drive one of these routes in the meantime, track them with the MRA Mobile App or with MRA Navigation. Take some photos (moments) along the way as these will come in handy.
Create a travelstory of your Top 10 driven routes and add the recorded track to it.
There will also be some great prizes on offer, so keep an eye on the MRA-RouteXperts page and your email.
View Route Collection
10 Routes
2917.19 km
87h 19m