This is the second of a series of routes that form a tour from Dover to Lands End and back to Dover.
Within 10 minutes of leaving Brighton, the route will take you to the Devil's Dyke viewpoint. At 100 metres deep a kilometre long and 400 metres wide from rim to rim, Devil’s Dyke on the South Downs is a jaw dropping spectacle. In fact this is the longest, deepest and widest dry valley in Britain. In the late 1900s Devil’s Dyke became a major tourist attraction. A cable car was built across the dyke itself while a steep railway carried visitors up from Poynings at the bottom of the valley. A fairground, bandstands and a camera obscura all helped to transform the dyke from a striking landscape feature to a Victorian theme park. Today; you are more likely to see daredevils in hang gliders than a brass band playing. Either way, it is a great way to start the days journey.
At Upper Beeding, you cross over the picturesque River Adur which lends its name to the Adur district of West Sussex. The river, which is 20 miles (32 km) long, was once navigable for large vessels up as far as Steyning, where there was a large Saxon port, but by the 11th century the lower river became silted up and the port moved down to the deeper waters at the mouth of the river in Shoreham-by-Sea.
Charming, stylish and full of history, the picturesque market town of Arundel is next and is probably most famous for two stunning landmarks - Arundel Castle and Arundel Cathedral.
Arundel Castle is perched on top an outcrop of land overlooking the river Arun Valley and coast. It is the ideal location for a defensive building to help protect England from invasion. William the Conqueror gave Arundel, and a third of Sussex, to Roger de Montgomery as a thank you for his help during the Norman Conquest in 1066 on the understanding that he built a castle for defence. As Earl of Arundel he built a large motte or mound with a wooden keep or tower on top for accommodation along with upper and lower baileys (or enclosures) as living quarters for soldiers, animals and for storing equipment. He later added a gatehouse and replaced the protective walls with stone.
Built astride a hill the Cathedral sits majestically, overlooking the ancient town of Arundel and stands out as an inspiring landmark in West Sussex. Henry, 15th Duke of Norfolk, Earl Marshal, was responsible for the commissioning of the present building in December 1868. The architect was Joseph Hansom, known principally for invention of the Hansom Cab, who had designed a variety of Catholic churches, convents and other buildings.
If you decide not to stop at Arundel, just 5 minutes further on, you can stop at Whiteways Café for a coffee. A popular haunt with bikers, car enthusiasts and all those who pass through the area. It serves as a great pit stop on a ride out for refreshments. Visitors on a Sunday will find hundreds of bikers arriving and leaving all through the course of the day.
For those interested in ancient history, Bignor Roman Villa is a must stop. For nearly two hundred years locals and tourists have been visiting the site to see the fantastic mosaics that adorned the floors of this once elegant Roman Villa. The villa was a rich working farm in Roman Britain and the land is still farmed to this day by the Tupper family, descendants of George Tupper who discovered the site whilst ploughing in 1811. Open from March to October Ticket price £7.50.
One more suggestion for a stop before lunch is at the Coultershaw Bridge.
Coultershaw is an important example of 18th century industrialisation in a rural area. It has been the site of several corn mills from before 1086 up to 1973. It was on the routes of the Rother Navigation (1794-1888), the Petworth to Chichester Turnpike (1800-1877) and the Mid Sussex Railway to Petworth (1859-1966). The Coultershaw Beam Pump was installed alongside the corn mill in 1782 to provide an extra water supply for Petworth House and the town of Petworth.
You are now in the heart of the South Downs National Park, so enjoy the next 30 miles of beautiful English countryside to the next stop at Warnford. I have suggested lunch here at the George and Falcon pub. The village of Warnford lies in the Meon Valley in central Hampshire and is part of the South Downs National Park. The River Meon is a classic Hampshire chalk stream fed by local springs in the village and the long established watercress beds by the river. The village is well known for its outstanding display of snowdrops which are usually at their best around February.
A short ride from Warnford will take you by Twyfords Waterworks.
Twyford Waterworks is an Edwardian pumping station with a unique array of buildings and machinery. A collection of steam, diesel and electric pumps help to tell the story of water extraction, softening and supply over the last 100 years. Restored by volunteers of the Twyford Waterworks Trust, it is described by English Heritage as ‘exceptional’ and a short stop here for any fans of steam engineering is recommended.
Leaving the national park and crossing the county border from Hampshire to Wiltshire, the route takes you to the city of Salisbury.
A Cathedral city of ageless beauty and captivating history, Salisbury has been welcoming travellers since 1227. At the city’s heart is Salisbury Cathedral, a place of worship, welcome, and hospitality for over 800 years. Its Spire (the tallest in the country and a feat of medieval engineering) rises to a breath-taking 404ft/123m, guiding travellers, merchants, and pilgrims to the historic city. Time in the Cathedral is marked by the tick of the oldest working mechanical clock in the world. The modern blue ‘Prisoners of Conscience’ window dominates the East end, a powerful reminder of the sacrifices that many have made, and still make, to protect freedom and justice. Salisbury Cathedral is home to the best preserved of only four surviving Magna Carta documents from 1215, the first document to put into writing the principle that the king and his government was not above the law. It sought to prevent the king from exploiting his power, and placed limits of royal authority by establishing law as a power in itself.
The route heads north now to Stonehenge.
Stonehenge stands impressively as a prehistoric monument of unique importance just 150m from the A303, giving you a great view of it as you travel past. The stone circle itself forms the highlight of any visit to the World Heritage Site and is not to be missed. However, the Stonehenge Visitor Centre completes a day out at this world-famous monument. Take a right turn at the next roundabout to visit. A link for prices and opening times is below this review.
A 10 minute ride from here takes you to the end of the route at the Pelican Inn at Stapleford. A cosy British pub set in the heart of Wiltshire.
Enjoy