After leaving the comfortable accomodation at Pleck Barn, you will travel on very small rural roads to the charming and quaint village of Cerne Abbas. The village of Cerne Abbas grew around a great Benedictine Abbey, which was founded in AD 987 however the dissolution of the monasteries in the 16th century sadly saw the Abbey destroyed. Remains of the Abbey can still be seen today and are well worth a visit. Despite the loss of the Abbey the village managed to not just survive but prosper; Cerne’s fresh underground water supply fuelling a highly successful brewing trade. The quality beer was sold as far afield as London and was even exported to the Americas. Due to this industry, Cerne Abbas at one time boasted no fewer than 15 public houses with a population of only 1500. Waterpower also gave rise to many other small industries including milling and silk weaving. Today, the village survives from its tourist industry, enticing people not only from all over Britain but also from across the globe to view the huge ‘Rude Man’.
The Cerne Abbas giant is also known as the rude man for obvious reasons. The figure is 180ft (55m) in height and dominates the hillside outside Cerne Abbas. The origins of the Giant, now owned by the National Trust, are a mix of fact and speculation. Some believe that he represents the Roman god Hercules or that he is a Pagan fertility symbol. There is no known historical record before 1694, however recent studies suggest the giant was first made by the Saxons between AD 700 and 1100.
After taking photos of the rude man, the route heads south and uses the Dorchester bypass to take you to the other chalk carving in Dorset, this one is Osmington White Horse.
Weymouth was a popular holiday destination for King George III and his court, and it has been said that Weymouth was the centre of the Empire during the frequent periods when the King was in residence. He loved the local countryside and would ride his favourite charger Adonis across the Ridgeway to visit friends. In 1808 it was decided to honour the King by creating a figure on the hillside depicting the king riding his favourite charger. The Osmington White Horse is 85 metres long and nearly 100 metres high. Sadly, due to illness, the King was unable to return to Weymouth and therefore did not see this mark of loyalty by his subjects.
The route travels into Weymouth now and past the marina and onto the Isle of Portland.
The Isle of Portland (actually a tied island) is the Jurassic Coast’s most southerly point, and is joined to the mainland by just a thin strip at the southern end of the sweeping arc of Chesil Beach. Its isolated location and beautiful scenery make it a real explorer’s island, while the comparatively mild climate enables a wide variety of flora and fauna to thrive. Many parts of the island, including the whole of the coastline, are designated as Sites of Special Scientific Interest (SSSO). Chesil Beach and the Fleet lagoon, the fresh water lake behind the beach are of international conservation importance and are home to nearly 300 species of bird, over 30 species of butterfly and 720 species of moth. Chesil Beach itself has intrigued geologists for centuries and is one of the finest examples of a barrier beach anywhere in the world. You get a great view of this when you reach the high ground known as The Verne. The route uses the high ground primarily to offer the great views, but while you are there you could look at the citadel or fort.
Verne Citadel is a 19th-century citadel located on the highest point of Portland, Verne Hill, it sits in a commanding position overlooking Portland Harbour, which it was built to defend. It later became HM Prison The Verne in 1949. Incidentally, Construction of the harbour began in 1849; when completed in 1872, its 520-hectare (1,300-acre) surface area made it the largest man-made harbour in the world and remains one of the largest in the world today.
The Isle of Portland, or Portland is probably best known today for the fine Portland Stone that is quarried here. Portland Stone is a limestone formation from the Tithonian stage of the Jurassic period. It has been used extensively as a building stone throughout the British Isles, notably in major public buildings in London such as St Paul's Cathedral and Buckingham Palace. Portland Stone is also exported to many countries, being used for example in the United Nations headquarters building in New York City.
Enjoy your time and the views on the top of Portland as the route now travels to the southern tip to visit Portland Bill Lighthouse.
Portland Bill Lighthouse has been standing majestically for well over 100 years at a height of 41 metres (135 ft). The distinctive red and white tower first shone its famous four flashes of light every twenty seconds on 11 January 1906 and had a range of 25 nautical miles which has guided passing vessels through the hazardous waters around Portland Bill as well as acting as a waymark for ships navigating the English Channel. The station was re-engineered in 2019 and the optic has been removed from the lantern room and re-erected in the tower base as a display. The range of light is now 18 nautical miles. You can climb to the top of the lighthouse and see artifacts in the visitors centre for £8.50. There is free motorcycle parking in the car park and the Lobster Pot café has arguably the best views you’ll find to enjoy a cup of coffee.
The route leaves Portland now and heads west along the glorious Jurassic Coast with breathtaking seascape views.
The Jurassic Coast is a 95-mile long stretch of coastline in southern England, situated within the counties of Dorset and Devon. It is a UNESCO World Heritage Site recognised for its outstanding rocks, fossils and landforms. The Jurassic Coast is one of the most popular destinations in Britain, drawing millions of visitors from all over the world each year. To discover all of its secrets and treasures would take a lifetime, but likewise, its unique history and character can be felt right from your very first glimpse. On the Jurassic Coast, geology takes centre stage. It is the only place on Earth where rocks from the Triassic, Jurassic and Cretaceous Periods can be seen in one place, representing 185 million years of Earth’s history. Within these rocks are countless stories of continents colliding, landscapes being formed and shaped by time and tide, and extraordinary creatures living, dying and evolving across millions of years, many of which we are lucky enough to discover, enjoy and study today through the fossils they’ve left behind.
The route takes you to the West Bay - a charming fishing village located on one of the most dramatic stretches of the Jurassic Coast. There is a wonderful selection of places to eat lunch that surround the harbour and a motorcycle clothing store to tempt money from your wallet. For these reasons, West Bay is one of my favourite weekend destinations.
Lyme Regis is next, a pretty seaside town, often referred to as the ‘pearl of Dorset’. Boasting beautiful beaches, breathtaking scenery, a fascinating history and picturesque harbour. A journey along the Jurassic Coast wouldn’t seem right without a visit to Lyme Regis. Lyme’s existence depended upon the Cobb, a small artificial harbour dating from the time of Edward I. Because of The Cobb, Lyme Regis became a shipbuilding centre and important port, as recently at 1780 it was larger than the port of Liverpool. The Cobb is internationally known among book lovers as the place where Louisa Musgrove fell from steps known locally as Granny’s Teeth, in Jane Austen’s novel Persuasion. Jane Austen stayed here in 1804, and several scenes from both Persuasion and Northanger Abbey are set in the area.
Lyme Regis is famous for its geology, fossils and its unparalleled role in the birth of the earth sciences. The local Blue Lias clay found to the east and west of Lyme contains the remarkable fossil remains of marine creatures from the Jurassic seas of 180 million years ago. If you are into fossils and dinosaurs, park up and visit the well acclaimed Dinosaurland Fossil Museum, £6.00 entry fee.
Leaving Lyme Regis behind, the route crosses the county border into Devon to visit a small fishing village called Beer. It would be wrong not to visit a village called Beer! The picture-postcard village of Beer, Devon nestles in Lyme Bay, on the 95-mile long Jurassic Coast. The shingle beach still boasts a small fleet of working fishing boats and the surrounding picturesque white chalk cliffs provide a natural suntrap sheltering the cove from prevailing westerly winds. While it is now a popular tourist site, Beer Village was once known for being a haven for smugglers thanks to the many caves that can be found around the cliffs of the Jurassic Coast. To this day, the village remains a hidden gem, in the eighteenth century, smugglers knew they would be well hidden as the beach is only visible from far out at sea, and the cliffs protected boats from stormy weather, so fishermen and smugglers could dock and cast off when others were stuck on shore.
The final place to visit on this route is the Donkey Sanctuary. Now I know that not everyone will want to visit these cute four legged creatures so I haven’t included it in the route. You will need to turn off from the A3052 but it is well signposted and I have placed a pink route point to indicate the turning.
The Donkey Sanctuary was founded in Salcombe Regis, Near Sidmouth in 1969 by Dr Elisabeth Svendsen, MBE. She dedicated her life to rescuing donkeys throughout the world and through her work and devotion the Sanctuary grew to become an international charity. Renowned the world over, the charity’s aim is to have a world where donkeys and mules live free from suffering, and their contribution to humanity is fully valued.
I have a fondness for donkeys and have a small furry one attached to my bike.
From here, the route heads towards Exeter and joins faster roads to take you to the end of the route at The Dartmoor Halfway Inn, just 45 minutes away and situated on the eastern side of Dartmoor National Park. The next route in this tour is a round trip of Dartmoor so book two nights at the Inn.
Enjoy