From the start at Bridgewater the route crosses over the M5 motorway and heads into the Avalon Marshes on the Somerset Levels. The Somerset Levels and Moors is a unique flat landscape that extends for about 170,000 acres (70,000 ha) across parts of the north and centre of the county of Somerset. Thousands of years ago the area was covered by the sea, but today it's a landscape of rivers and wetlands - artificially drained, irrigated and modified to allow productive farming. On a clear day, you can see the iconic St. Michael's Tower on Glastonbury Tor to the east.
The Mendip Hills are next. In recognition of its special qualities the area has been designated as an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty (AONB). This is one of England’s most special places – the limestone Mendip Hills with the lakes of the Chew Valley is a stunning landscape of steep slopes and undulating plateau punctuated by spectacular gorges and rocky outcrops.
The world famous Cheddar Gorge acts as a great gateway into the Mendip Hills. Carved out in the Ice Age, Cheddar Gorge is Britain's largest gorge, boasting an elaborate cave system and limestone cliffs which rise spectacularly from the valley floor. Britain's oldest complete skeleton was discovered here in 1903, having been buried below ground for 9,000 years. Older remains, dating back over 13,000 years have also been found. At the beginning of the gorge lies Gough’s Cave, an archaeologists dream. The cave contained skeletal remains of both humans and animals, all showing cut-marks and breakage consistent with de-fleshing and eating. Skull fragments including a young child of about 3 years old and two adolescents were found, they appear to have been prepared as drinking cups or containers. In 2020 a 20cm long 40,000 year old mammoth tusk with a line of 4 holes drilled into it was interpreted as being a device for making rope.
The route passes Chew Valley Lake, the fifth-largest artificial lake in the United Kingdom, with an area of 1,200 acres. The lake, created in the early 1950s, was opened by Queen Elizabeth II in 1956. The lake indicates that you're leaving the Mendip Hills and are now heading for the city of Bristol.
It's difficult to avoid the city so I have embraced it by taking you over the Clifton Suspension Bridge, one of Bristol’s most recognisable structures.
The world famous Clifton Suspension Bridge was designed by the great Victorian engineer Isambard Kingdom Brunel, although he never lived to see his creation finished in 1864. Work actually began in 1831, but the project was dogged with political and financial difficulties, and by 1843, with only the towers completed, the project was abandoned. Brunel died aged only 53 in 1859, but the Clifton Suspension Bridge was completed as his memorial. Designed in the early 19th century for light horse drawn traffic, it still meets the demands of 21st century commuter with 11-12,000 vehicles crossing it every day. The Clifton Suspension Bridge’s spectacular setting on the cliffs of the Avon Gorge has made it the defining symbol of Bristol, drawing thousands of visitors a year just to stroll across for views of the ancient Avon Gorge, elegant Clifton and the magnificent city beyond.
The route joins the M48 motorway now to cross the River Severn over the Severn Bridge. The Severn Bridge, is an impressive suspension bridge with a 3,240-foot (990-metre) main span. was built in the 1960s, replacing the ferry service which had operated across the Severn for many years. It consists of four separate structures – the Aust Viaduct, the Severn Bridge, the Beachley Viaduct and the Wye Bridge.
The route takes a short detour from the main road to get a great view of Chepstow Castle sitting on the banks of the River Wye. Building was started in 1067 by Earl William fitz Osbern, close friend of William the Conqueror, making it one of the first Norman strongholds in Wales. In turn William Marshal (Earl of Pembroke), Roger Bigod (Earl of Norfolk) and Charles Somerset (Earl of Worcester) all made their mark before the castle declined after the Civil War.
Another ancient building is next, Tintern Abbey, a national icon — still standing in roofless splendour on the banks of the River Wye nearly 500 years since its tragic fall from grace. The abbey ruins lay forgotten until the 18th century. Then something wild and romantic began to stir in British hearts. Tintern was about to experience a second heyday – this time as a major tourist destination. Grab a coffee here before continuing along the Wye Valley, another Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty AONB.
The route now heads for the Gospel Pass the highest pass in Wales. The Gospel Pass is a narrow lane road snaking over the Black Mountains. It links the towns of Abergavenny and Hay-on-Wye and goes past the Llanthony Abbey, taking travellers to an altitude of 549 m (1,801 ft). The name of the pass derives from the 12th-century crusaders who were travelling in this area to raise funds for their cause.
When driving on this road, you will be surrounded on both sides by mountains. Also, the pass is flanked by the peaks of Waun Fach, with an altitude of 809m and Hay Bluff, with an altitude of 677m, close to the English border.
I have suggested a lunch stop at The Granary in Hay on Wye. They serve delicious home made food and great coffee.
Since crossing the River Severn the route has flitted between England and Wales, it now heads back into England and travels through beautiful countryside towards the Shropshire Hills, the third AONB of the day. The Shropshire Hills are not just beautiful, they are officially outstanding. This distinctive area of the Anglo-Welsh borders is where remote upland merges into pastoral lowland. The Shropshire Hills is a varied and special landscape which is rich in geology and wildlife (e.g. the southernmost home for Red Grouse) and ingrained with heritage in rolling farmland, woods and river valleys. Plus lots of industrial heritage with mining and railways due to the geology.
The next sight to see is Whittington Castle right next to the roadside on the A495. The present Whittington Castle ruins date from 1221 when the Fitz-Warren family applied to King Henry III for permission to build a stone fortress. Originally, the castle had 7 towers and a drawbridge over 12m long. The Fitz-Warrens had a remarkable love/hate relationship with the English monarchy. The feud eventually caused Fulk Fitz-Warren to flee to France to avoid certain death. After years of exile, Fulk was granted a pardon and was able to return and repossess Whittington Castle.
Just 9 miles further on from the castle is The Pontcysyllte Aqueduct, a world heritage site. You can see it from the road or you can park up and walk across Thomas Telford's incredible aqueduct over the River Dee. The end of the route is just 20 minutes away, so if you have time, do it. Pontcysyllte is one of the most stunning sights of North Wales. There are 18 piers 126ft high (38.4m) and 19 arches, each with a 45ft (13.7m) span. To keep the aqueduct as light as possible, the slender masonry piers are partly hollow and taper at their summit. The mortar was made of oxen blood, lime and water. The aqueduct holds 1.5 million litres of water and takes two hours to drain.
The Horseshoe Pass rises to 1367 feet (417 metres) and takes you to the end of this route, the Ponderosa Café.
The Ponderosa Café got its name from a feature of an American TV series called Bonanza. The show revolved around life on the large Ponderosa Ranch and was popular with viewers in Britain and many other countries in the 1960s.
The café’s history goes back decades earlier. In the 1930s, as leisure motoring grew rapidly, a shack here sold refreshments and cigarettes. It was run by a Frederick Hill until the café closed in the Second World War. In the 1950s a new café was opened by David Williams. He became known as Dai the Mule, because he used a donkey to carry water to the café up the steep slope from St Collen’s Well
By now, Dai’s café building has been extended several times to form a complex which includes a gift shop and Bed & Breakfast accommodation. Some of the timbers in the dining area were brought here from a dismantled barn in Cheshire and it’s thought they were previously part of a ship, perhaps in the 16th century. Motorcyclists riding machines of all types and sizes gather here at weekends to socialise, eat and admire each other’s bikes.
To book your room at the Ponderosa either ring 01978 790307 or email ponderosacafe@outlook.com or message them via their Facebook link below.